M.Y.O.S.R. -- Make Your Own Spring Rolls!

File this one under "Because You Can." Also, under "Easy to Consume with One Broken Arm," "Fits In Pocket," and "Freshalicious."

One pack of rice papers (dehydrated) from my Asian market costs approximately nothing (actually, you can see the price tag in the photo) and, if the Vietnamese were into things like expiration dates, you might see a date well into the next century stamped right next to "Machine Made!" on the lid. To the left of the shamrock. Naturally.

Actually, spring rolls are a fantastic alternative to the sandwich, which is sooooo yesterday's post (literally). You can stuff them with anything that's finely shredded and moisture free, and they'll last a couple days in the fridge if you can't shovel all six at once. Be sure not to skip the fresh basil leaves here, as they are imperative to the springy taste.

Also, don't get discouraged if your rolling skills take some practice. My first few attempts at spring rolls were loose, chaotic messes. It takes a little finesse to pull as tightly as possible without tearing the paper. You'll probably never get as good as the folks at the take-out restaurant, but you'll love them because they're yours.

Vegetable Spring Rolls with Baked Tempeh and Peanut Dipping Sauce

makes 6 rolls, takes 45 minutes with tempeh, about 15 without

For the Tempeh:

1 8-oz container tempeh

1/2 cup water

2 Tbsp soy sauce

1/2 Tbsp chopped fresh ginger, or about 1 tsp dried

1 clove garlic, minced

pinch red pepper flakes

1 tsp toasted Asian sesame oil

1 tsp sesame seed

For the Spring Rolls:

8-inch round rice papers

1 cup (scant) shredded cabbage, very dry

1 large carrot, peeled and grated

2 scallions, thinly sliced

12 fresh basil leaves

Peanut Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)

1. For the tempeh: Slice your slab into 10 logs. Mix water, soy, ginger, garlic, and red pepper flakes together and pour into a small saucepan over medium high heat. Lay tempeh logs in a single layer over the bottom.Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook 15 minutes, flipping halfway through.
2. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450º. Brush a shallow baking dish with the sesame oil. When all the marinade is absorbed, transfer tempeh slabs into baking dish and sprinkle with half of sesame seeds. Turn and sprinkle with other half. Bake 15 minutes, turn, and bake 15 minutes more. Let cool.
   
   
3. For the rolls: In a large bowl, toss together cabbage, carrot, and scallions.

Make yourself a nice workspace with all your ingredients laid out, a clean dish towel in the middle, and a pie plate or large bowl filled with warm water. Start by submerging your rice paper into the water until pliable, about 10 seconds. Transfer to kitchen towel and blot dry. Plop about 1/3 cup cabbage mixture on the bottom 1/3 of the rice paper round. Top with 1 1/2 tempeh logs and 2 fresh basil leaves.Lift the bottom edge over the filling and fold the two sides in toward the center. Roll as tightly as possible without tearing the paper. Set on a plate, seam side down. You go, girl (or whoever).

Peanut Dipping Sauce

1/4 cup natural peanut butter

1 clove garlic

1 Tbsp lime juice

1 Tbsp soy sauce

pinch cayenne, or a dash of hot sauce

water (3-4 Tbsp)

• Combine all ingredients except water in food processor and spin until smooth. Add water until a desirable dipping consistency is reached.

Baking with Tempeh!

Whokay. It's time you discovered tempeh. Or rediscovered it. Or at least stopped racing by that enigmatic "meat substitute" area near the dairy case at the grocery store. There's some reasonable stuff there. Also, there's some scary stuff there.

Tempeh: not scary. Misunderstood, maybe. Mushy, perhaps. Tasteless, only if prepared carelessly. Don't worry, I have pushed through "careless" into "unfortunate" and flat through "failure" to bring you what I now believe to be the easiest, most foolproof way to eat more tempeh.

But why would you want to do that? Well, maybe you have recently decided to eat WAY less meat. Maybe you decided that, I don't know, the factory farm system is kind of broken and you'd rather not contribute your hard-earned dollars to a fockacta plan that's bad for farmers, animals, the planet, and all Americans in general. Maybe you only buy meat from small farms now, directly from the farmers, and maybe it's so expensive that you can really only afford to eat it 2 or 3 times a week. Maybe you have desperately been trying to replace that missing protein in your diet with something other than eggs. Eggs eggs eggs three times a day. No? Just me?

Well, then maybe you decided you loved your healthy colon or your low cholesterol or your stable blood sugar levels. Maybe you needed that extra soy to soothe your menopausal symptoms (OOOH! I went there!) or became intent on lowering your risk of prostate cancer (That's right! You too, guys!). Maybe you just really like Indonesian food.

Whatever the reason, I am here to bring you three charming recipes for tempeh that actually tastes. What you must do is very simple: bake it in a marinade. Submerge it in a tasty sauce and cook. Mix, pour, bake. Super easy. Slice the chunks over salad, make a TLT sandwich, or eat it with a fork on top of polenta (a.k.a. grits). Will you miss the meat? Yes. But you'll live longer. That's a promise. And the earth will give you a hug. Or if not the earth, then a happy cow. Ok, probably not him either. Just give yourself a hug for me.

Baked Tempeh: 3 ways

1) Barbecue Tempeh

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup olive oil

2 Tbsp maple syrup

1 tsp cumin

1 tsp Tabasco, hot chili powder, or other heat source

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1/2 tsp paprika

1 8-oz block of tempeh, cut into desired shapes for eating

• Mix together all marinade ingredients. Set tempeh in a baking dish just big enough to fit all the pieces in a single layer, lying flat. Pour marinade over, cover with foil, and bake in a 350º oven for 20 minutes. Take out, flip pieces, re-cover and bake 15 minutes more. Remove foil, pour excess marinade out*, and bake 10 more minutes to crisp up a little bit. Serve hot or cold.

*Alternately, pour marinade into a small pot and reduce on the stovetop while tempeh finishes the bake. Serve as extra sauce.

2) Balsamic Marinated Tempeh

3 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

3 Tbsp soy sauce

2 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp water

1 tsp pepper

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 8-oz block tempeh

• Same directions as above. Scroll up, lazy.

3) Maple-Bacon Tempeh (no joke)

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup water

2 Tbsp maple syrup

1/4 tsp liquid smoke

• Same song, third verse.

Lentil Cucumber Salad with Yogurt Tahini Dressing

Well, well, well, look who's back. (I am.)

At least for now. I have returned to the world of daytime work -- for the most part -- and have begun to sneak back into the practice of creative cookery. More and more there are new things that I want to remember, plus a fancy new camera to use for picturing (no new pics yet, though...)!

Let's resume with an easy-squeezy summer salad, the kind you stir together, stuff in the fridge, and eat for a couple of days. Or not. Maybe you just want to make enough for one sitting. That's cool too.

Basically this "recipe" can be a ratio, something like this:

1 part lentil

1 part celery

1 part edamame

2 parts cucumber

I really like the crunch of the cuke, so it gets a featuring roll. Plus, it keeps the salad fresh-tasting after a few days in the fridge. Toss it in some yogurt, and you're Downslicing again! YES! Doesn't it feel good!?!!?

Lentil Cucumber Salad with Yogurt Tahini Dressing

serves 1-2; ready in 10 minutes or less, depending on your chopping abilities

1/2 cup cooked lentils (I like French, but you can go with green too), rinsed in cold water

1/2 cup diced celery

1/2 cup frozen edamame, thawed or speed-cooked in the microwave

1 cup diced cucumber*

Salt

This business is pretty self explanatory, but just for the sake of idiot-proofing it, let's just mention a few things, shall we?

1. Cook the lentils just like you would pasta. Boil them in a heap of salted water, taste after about 20 minutes to see if they're edible. Try not to take them too far past Al Dente, into Mush-tastic.
2. Chop the celery as small as you can, close to the size of the lentils, so you get a nice, even bite.
3. Buy an English seedless cucumber (yes, the shrink wrapped kind). If you can't find them, or would rather buy local, get a regular cuke, but peel and seed it. This means taking a spoon to the middle of your halved cucumber and scooping out all those watery seeds.
4. Toss everything in a bowl with a hefty pinch of salt before dressing. It will really boost your flava.

For the Dressing

1/4 cup GREEK YOGURT

1 Tbsp tahini

1 Tbsp lemon juice

salt to taste

• The Greek yogurt thing is really important here because your veggies, once cut, are going to release a lot of juice and dilute the dressing. I know it's more expensive, but it tastes better, and you need its thick deliciousness in this case. Just buy a little onesy. It's like a buck.
• Mix all ingredients together, adding salt as you see fit. Toss with diced veg and store in the fridge.

Beet + Avocado + Goat Cheese Sandwich

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT be deterred by the title of this post, or the ingredients contained in this sandwich--which may seem to you like the rejects of the produce department. Not so! They play together like the members of Mylie Cyrus's backup band: rich and sweet.

This sandwich is the new business. And if you are David, this sandwich may also include a piece of crispy bacon. Oh. My. Delicious. Promise me you'll try it, even if (YOU THINK) you don't like beets.

The Beginning of the New Sandwich Era will require the following...

1 large red beet

2 slices of bread

goat cheese

an avocado

lettuce greens

(optional slice of bacon)

1. First, roast your beet: preheat your oven to 375º. Wrap the beet in foil and toss it in the oven. Beet is done when you can slip a paring knife into the parcel and meet no resistance. When cool enough to handle, peel the beet (skin will slip right off) and slice into 1/2-inch rounds. Toss the beet with a little salt and a tablespoon of cider vinegar.
2. Slap some goat cheese on both slices of bread. Top with a layer of beet, avocado slices, and greens. If you want, slip a crisp slice of bacon in there.

Root Vegetable Gratin

I know I've bored you elsewhere with the secrets of a good gratin, so you're spared the lesson this week--linguistic or otherwise. What you get instead (!!) is a delicious baked dish with the earthy flavors of winter. Plus it's pretty, no?

Ok, start with a couple of roots. Peel and julienne them. [Hold up--what? This just means cut them in tiny matchsticks: slice as thin as your trembling knife hand will allow you one way, then stack the slender slices atop one another, and slice cross ways, again, as thin as humanly possible. See exhibit A:]

Saute an onion. Throw it all in a cream sauce you made yourself. Then stir and bake. Really, that easy. You can follow the sauce recipe here, for a cheesy version, or you can go with the straight sauce below. Your call.

Root Vegetable Gratin

serves 2-3, but leftovers are quite good

the veggies:

1 small potato (red, yukon gold, etc. NOT a baking potato), julienned

1 small carrot, julienned

1 medium-sized turnip, julienned

1/2 small onion, sliced thin and lightly sauteed in olive oil

[optional, some blanched, chopped greens of your choice, 1/2 cup or so]

the sauce:

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup broth [or just a full cup milk, if you like]

1 1/2 Tbsp olive oil

1 1/2 Tbsp flour

1/2 small onion, finely diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

salt and pepper

the rest:

1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs, tossed in olive oil or melted butter

1. First, julienne the potato, carrot, and turnip. Because the Internet is omniscient, you can consult it on how precisely to do this. But don't feel like you need to chop as fast as this guy. Toss them in a big bowl with the sauteed onions, greens (if using) and a healthy dose of salt and pepper.
2. Next, make your cream sauce. Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add diced onion and saute with a pinch of salt until translucent, 3-5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more. Sprinkle flour over top and stir that around, cooking the flour, for about 2 minutes. Add the milk in 3 additions, whisking really well after each time to get at any clumps of flour. Remove from heat as soon as it boils from the third addition and gets nice and thick. Season with plenty of salt and pepper and pour over vegetables. Stir.
3. Grease a nice gratin-friendly dish, pour the mixture in and flatten with the back of your spatula. Sprinkle with bread crumbs you've tossed in olive oil or melted butter and mixed with parmesan cheese. [Oh, and if you want to, that slice of bacon you fried and crumbled.] Bake for 35-40 minutes at 375º.

Roast an Onion

So sometimes when you roast something meaty, you toss in a few other vegetables with it: carrots, potatoes, maybe some onions. Nothing tastes quite like an earthy veg that has been slow braised in delicious meat juices.

Well, this is not that. BUT, it's a way to get a tender, delicious onion without having to roast a whole chicken. Also, it's idiot proof. If you have a small oven dish, a piece of foil, and a little patience, you've got a couple of roasted onions.

Let me warn you, a roasted onion does not a meal make. It is delicious but not terribly filling, so make it a side dish: pair it with a big salad or some other veggies. It also holds in the fridge and reheats well. And do not, I repeat, DO NOT try to eat this thing without salt. A sprinkle of salt opens up worlds of flavor; no salt = kinda lame. Also, try it with the vinaigrette I suggest at the end. Impress your friends. Or yourself.

Easy Roasted Onion

ready in 45 min; serves 1 per however many onions you roast

Grab an onion or two. Set it/them (peel and all) in an oven-safe dish. Add enough water to reach 1/2-inch depth. Cover in foil and set in a 350º oven. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove the foil and bake 10 minutes more.

Meanwhile, whisk together the following:

1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tsp spicy or dijon mustard

2 Tbsp olive oil

sprinkle of salt and pepper

Now, place the onion on a plate and carefully cut off one end of the onion paper. Now, cut the whole thing down the middle, and open it out. Top with salt, drizzle with balsamic vinegar, and serve. P.S. Don't eat the onion skin.

Lentil Salad with Roasted Root Vegetables

You know, people's opinions on lentils really run the gamut. Some people hate them. Some people really hate them. Some only dislike them. Some throw up a little when they think about them. Others are narcotized with boredom.

Wherever you fall on this scale, have I got a recipe for you! First, let's talk a little about the lentil, shall we?

What is it? Well, Harold says that the lentil is probably the oldest cultivated legume, that is, the family of plants that have seed-bearing pods (more or less, think beans and peas). Its Latin origin is the word lens, presumably for its shape, like two contact lenses back-to-back. Alan helpfully adds that the seeds themselves "come in various sizes, from tiny to small," thank you, and a variety of colors. They can basically be grouped into two categories: those which are large and light colored (greenish and yellowish), and the others which are much smaller and either brown, pink, or grey.

Also, lentils have the highest protein content of all its competitors, excluding soy beans, at more than 30% of your RDA per serving. I'm not sure why lentils have earned such a bad rap: they have a really mild flavor and readily absorb the essence of whatever you join them with. Wait, maybe it's all that fiber. Maybe you've all eaten lentils and embarrassed yourself after dinner. Well, even if you have, you've been simultaneously fighting high cholesterol and heart disease, regulating your digestive tract, stabilizing your blood sugar levels, and pumping iron (into your bloodstream, which is good). So give the lentil another chance, will you? Try this.

Boil some lentils until they're soft, but not mushy (about 15-20 minutes). Meanwhile, dice up some root vegetables--sweeter ones like beets and carrots--and roast them in the oven. Make a quick vinaigrette and toss it all together. Even add some cheese if you want. It's great warm or cold, so keep it in the fridge and fork it for the next few days.

Lentil Salad with Roasted Root Vegetables

can serve 2-3, but also makes a great lunch-for-work or snack-when-you're-bored-at-home for one; ready in 45 minutes

1 medium carrot

1 very small (or 1/2 medium) celery root

2 medium golden beets, (with greens optional)

1/2 cup green lentils

4 scallions

3 Tbsp red wine vinegar

2 Tbsp walnut, grape seed, or olive oil

1 tsp dijon mustard

1 tsp honey

salt and pepper

Optional: 2 Tbsp grated parmesan or crumbled feta

1. First, preheat your oven to 375º and dice up the carrot, celery root (peeled) and beets (peeled) into 1/2-inch dice. Toss with oil, salt and pepper and throw in the oven until they're pretty soft, 25-35 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, bring a small pot of water to boil. Dump in the lentils and cook for 17-20 minutes, until the lentils are chewable but still have a little bite. (If you go to far, you'll have mush instead of salad.) Lift out with a strainer, leaving the hot water in the pot. Stem and chop up the beet greens and drop them in the boiling water for about 5 minutes, until softened. Drain.
3. In a large bowl, combine vinegar, oil, mustard, honey, salt and pepper to taste. Whisk vigorously until well combined. Then stir in lentils, roasted vegetables, greens, scallions, and cheese (if using). Season with salt and pepper. Yum!

Butternut Squash and Chickpea Salad

If the number of butternut squash(es? what's the plural on that one) sitting on my counter is any indication, the season of winter vegetables is upon us. At least, its upon us here in balmy Boston, where it hovers above freezing for the majority of the year. But I'm not even tired of blueberries yet! Or pears! Or zucchini (really)!

At any rate, those farmers keep shoving squash at me, so I have no choice but to eat it. Somehow, in the intervening months since I have last feasted on this particular squash, I forgot how naturally sweet it is. Which means it lends itself perfectly to that cuisine of my favor: Middle Eastern. The combination of sweet, hot, salty and tangy is a favorite of those Bedouins, and found its way into my kitchen tonight thanks to Orangette.

I loved my salad but it may have been a bit heavy on the dressing. Follow her lead and add the dressing to your tossed ingredients a little at time, to taste.

Butternut and Chickpea Salad with Tahini

serves 2, or 1 with leftovers; takes about 40 minutes, with canned beans

1 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch chunks

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 tsp ground allspice

1 cup cooked chickpeas (canned, drained, will do OK)

1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp chopped cilantro

dressing:

1 small clove garlic, grated

2 Tbsp lemon juice

1 Tbsp tahini, well stirred

up to 1 Tbsp olive oil

water, to thin, as desired

1. Toss squash chunks with garlic, allspice, and a healthy douse of olive oil. Sprinkle with salt. Roast in a 425º oven for about 20 minutes, or until soft.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the dressing by whisking together garlic, lemon juice, and tahini. If it is too bitter or acerbic, add olive oil. If it is too thick for your liking, add water.
3. When squash is done, toss in a bowl with chickpeas, onion and cilantro. Add 2 Tbsp or so of dressing, toss, and taste. Add more as desired.

Veggie Night: Sweet Potato & Kale Sandwich

Contrary to popular opinion and prevalent menu impositions, a sandwich does not have to have meat in order to be a satisfying, fist-fitting meal. I'm learning from my work that as long as you're working with quality ingredients, you have a really good shot at getting a delicious finished product. Good bread is a big first step; starting with fresh produce is another.

Often, though, you need a little foresight to make certain items--like potatoes, say--edible. This is where the stack-o-cold-cuts wins out: efficiency. But try experimenting with sticking new things between two slices of bread and see what you come out with. May just be your new favorite.

Sweet Potato & Kale Sandwich

serves two; takes about 30 minutes

4 slices good sandwich bread; we used sourdough

1 small sweet potato

1 small bunch kale

1 small onion (or 1/2 medium), sliced thick

1 small pear (or 1/2 medium), sliced thin

goat cheese, room temperature

Dijon mustard

Bacon mayonnaise (optional)

1. Start by roasting your sweet potato. Preheat oven to 400º. Peel potato and, depending on the size, cut it into planks (long ways) or medallions (cross-wise) about 1/2 inch thick--whatever you think will fit better on your bread. Spray foil-lined baking sheet with baking spray or brush with oil. Lay potato pieces out and spray or brush tops; sprinkle with salt. Roast 15-20 minutes, or until you poke it and it just feels soft. Don't cook it all the way to mush.
2. Meanwhile, heat a skillet with a bit of oil and saute your onions with a little salt until translucent, 3-5 minutes. Wash and stem the kale and slice it into very thin strips. Toss in skillet, add salt and pepper, and reduce heat. Stir until kale is cooked through, 6-8 minutes. Add more water (or some lemon juice) if the skillet gets dry. Lift cooked kale out of skillet and drain in a sieve or colander over sink.
3. Lastly, pull out a healthy chunk of goat cheese (about 2 Tbsp?) and mix with a little milk or cream until it's spreadable.
4. To assemble: spread mustard on one piece of bread and mayo (optional) on the other. Follow with goat cheese on one piece, then sweet potatoes, then kale/onion mixture, then slices of pear to cover. Top with other slice of bread and do some jaw stretches before attacking.

How to Smoke an Eggplant (No, not like that)

So, some of us are not fortunate enough to have anything resembling outdoor space we can call our own, and thus the adorable tiny Weber we bought to grill the pants off all our food sits neglected in our basement storage unit. Hey, at least we have a basement storage unit.

And a gas stove. Enter the new technique I have been applying to many-a-market-vegetable these days in effort to achieve something akin to smoky flavor in our food. It also helps me suppress the urge to punch a stranger in the face every time I smell someone else's delicious, char-grilled dinner wafting in through my open windows.

Basically, what you can do is set anything with a protective outer coating (like the skin of eggplants and peppers, say) straight onto the burner over a medium-low flame. Too high and you get instant burn with raw insides; too low and you'll be smoking that thing all freaking day. Set it right on the burner grate and keep a pair of tongs handy. You'll want to stand nearby but you don't have to watch it like a hawk. After several minutes, you have to turn the thing to make sure other parts of the 'plant get cooked. Keep turning and smoking until most sides of the eggplant look well charred and the flesh is smooshy when you poke it.

Now, toss the whole thing in a big bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let sit for about 15 minutes. This will continue to cook the insides. To get the goods, split the eggplant and scoop out the flesh with a fork or spoon. Not all the way cooked? Not a problem. Throw the meat in a microwave-safe bowl and zap till it's done; you've already got the flavor you want.

Eh, now what, right? Who eat smoked eggplant? Well, it's got a very distinct flavor, and one that may not be for everyone. In fact, if my dad is even still reading this post I'll be very impressed. He's probably already stopped to vomit at least 4 times. If you are interested in ingesting smoked eggplant, you may consider some Middle Eastern stylings, like baba ghanoush which is based around this very ingredient. I'll include some ideas to get you started.

Baba Ghanoush

1 large or 2 small eggplants; smoked and flesh scraped out

1 Tbsp tahini

1 large clove garlic, grated

2-3 Tbsp lemon juice

1 Tbsp chopped parsley

1/2 tsp cumin

salt and pepper to taste

Mix all together in a food processor or just aggressively with a fork. Best at room temp. Serve with flatbread, pita chips, or bagel chips that you made from the leftovers that Bagel Man at the farmers market continues to heap upon you, despite your protests that you only have a household of two and cannot, in fact, eat two dozen bagels in a week.

Yogurt-Eggplant Dip

1 large or two small eggplants, smoked and flesh scraped out

1/2 cup yogurt

1 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp lemon juice

1 clove garlic, grated

salt and pepper to taste

Mix and eat.

Eggplant Caviar (sort of)

1 large or two small eggplants, smoked and flesh scraped out

2 red peppers; smoked as above, tossed in a paper bag for 5 minutes, then skin slipped off

1 medium red onion, cut into rings and sauteed or microwaved until soft

2 cloves garlic, grated

3 Tbsp tomato paste (or more, to taste)

2-3 Tbsp olive oil

Use a food processor for this one to achieve a finely ground, uniform texture. Season with salt to taste.

Eat a Fig

Many people out there have not yet tasted the perfection that is a fresh fig: just past ripe, exploding with gooey juices, jewel-tone in color. It is nature's candy. If you ask me, there is only one way to eat a fig, and that is fresh off the tree.

Ok, if you ask me again later, I'd say there are lots of ways to enjoy figs, particularly the dried ones we get year-round. But in late summer, figs are in season, and like everything else they flood the markets, overwhelm you, and then disappear. Be sure to pick up some figs in the next week or two and let them sit on your counter until they're ripe--and then wait one more day. Chances are good you'll pack the whole lot of them away before you even have time to think.

If you do have time to think, think about quartering them and tucking a little pocket of goat cheese down inside. Then stir together some black pepper and honey and think about pouring that over top. Think about enjoying this as an appetizer, snack, or other such indulgence.

Figs with Goat Cheese and Black Pepper Honey

serves ? as an appetizer or snack; takes 5 mintues

fresh figs (however many you feel like consuming; any variety will do)

goat cheese, at or near room temperature preferably

1 Tbsp honey

1/4 tsp cracked black pepper

• Remove stems from the figs and cut crosswise (as in the picture here), but DON'T go all the way through; leave them connected at the bottom. Take a scant teaspoon of goat cheese and gently press it into the opening. Stir together honey and pepper and drizzle over top.

Squash "Pizza"

What to do with all that summer squash lying around? What to do, what to do...

This is the point in the summer when gardens and refrigerators nationwide are overflowing with zucchini and squash. No matter how many times this happens, each ensuing year we magically forget and plant just as many seeds--if not more--as last year. And then for a month, it's all we can do to come up with ways to down it: squash pancakes, zucchini ice cream, gratins, frittatas--the resulting creativity is directly proportional to the amount of produce rotting in your vegetable drawer.

This summer squash "pizza crust" strategy was quite good in theory, but was not (for me) so good in execution. I can think of a number of reasons for this, but I prefer to blame it on the recipe. Except I kind of didn't follow the recipe.

The concept is all over the 'net (see here for the most oft repeated example) and seems to be some sort of diet strategy for replacing bread in one's meal. Phooey is all I have to say to that. It involves shredded squash, some flour and egg for binding, and a flipping strategy that I left out but might just be necessary, I can say in hindsight.

I just pressed the "dough" into a cake pan, baked it, topped it, and baked it some more. It seems if you get sassy an flip the baked "crust" out, then top and double bake, you might achieve something more akin to a congealed mass. Ours was congealed, but still pretty mushy, though the flavors were great. Maybe you can mess with it and give me some suggestions?

Summer Squash "Pizza"

serves 2; start-to-finish, about 1 hour

2 cups shredded squash or zucchini

1/3 cup flour (I used whole wheat)

1/3 cup grated cheese (I used gruyere, yum, but you could use a combination of parmesan and mozzarella if you want, like the original recipe calls for)

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 medium clove garlic, grated

1/4 cup + 2 Tbsp chopped fresh basil

salt and pepper

1. Sprinkle some salt over the shredded squash and let sit in a colander in your sink for about half an hour. This will get rid of a lot of moisture. Preheat your oven to 350º.
2. Squeeze water from squash and combine with remaining ingredients (reserving 2 Tbsp basil). Press into well-greased baking receptacle: I used 9-inch cake pan which made a great thickness. Maybe you just want to mound it on a cookie sheet, I don't know. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until edges begin to brown and mixture is firm.
3. The step I didn't do: flip crust out onto another cookie sheet or the like, brush with oil and bake 5 minutes more.
4. Up the temperature in your oven to 450º. Top your "pizza crust" with thin slices of (preferably heirloom) tomatoes and parmesan cheese. Bake until cheese starts to brown, 5ish minutes. Sprinkle basil over top.

Zucchini and Bell Pepper Torte

Full disclosure: I'm not sure this dinner tasted as good as it looked, nor am I entirely sure it was worth the effort, but my goodness it's pretty. Right? I saw it in this month's Gourmet and immediately knew it must grace my kitchen table. Plus, I purchased an elephantine zucchini from

the market thinking it was funny; then I got home and realized I had to figure out how to eat it.

The whole enterprise was a bit fussy. It has several steps and you need a springform pan and a pressure strategy and several hours' patience while it occupies significant fridge space. But when you finally pop it out, it's actually a lot of fun to eat. Plus it's pretty. Maybe this is a dinner party-type recipe, especially since it must be made ahead of time. So go ahead and throw it together. Impress your friends. Eat some vegetables.

The more I think about this "torte" the more I realize it is not just a single recipe; it is a brilliant strategy. The gist of it is this: sauteed or roasted vegetables layered with cheese, pressed for several hours in the fridge to get rid of excess moisture, and sliced for serving. Seems to me you could use a number of different vegetable-and-cheese combinations here, especially since roasted red peppers have a very distinct flavor, and one that tends to take over if you're not careful. (For a non-red-pepper-lover, this is a problem.)

And I hate to say it, but the springform pan is kind of necessary here. You want the torte to shed some liquid during the pressing, so you want something with cracks in the bottom. Hate to be high maintenance, but there you have it. My 6-inch springform was the perfect size. And then, when you're done, you can make tiny cheesecake (more on that later)!

Zucchini and Bell Pepper Torte

(serves 2, total time at least 4 hours, preferably more, adapted from Gourmet)

2 red, yellow, orange, or purple peppers (not green!!), stemmed, halved and seeded

olive oil

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 lb (2ish) zucchini, sliced into 1/4 inch rounds and sprinkled with salt

1 red onion, sliced into 1/4 inch rounds

2 Tbsp red wine or cider vinegar

1/4 cup parmesan cheese, grated

2 Tbsp fresh basil, chopped (or 1 Tbsp dry)

1. Start by roasting your peppers. Slather them with olive oil and place them cut side down on a baking sheet covered with foil. Roast around 425º for 20ish minutes, turning once halfway through. As soon as they're out, take a pair of tongs and toss them into a paper bag and close the top. In 2 minutes, open the bag and pull out the peppers. Their skins should slip right off. Cut into thick slices
2. Now, heat 1 Tbsp olive oil with garlic in a large skillet. When oil is hot, add as many zucchini rounds as you can and cook about 3 minutes. Turn and cook 2 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and repeat with any additional zucchini slices.
3. In that same pan, add the onions with a pinch of salt. Cook 15 minutes, or until tender. Add vinegar and stir until evaporated, which will happen quickly.
4. Now for assembly. Flip the bottom of the sprinform over so you have the smooth side up. The layers go like this:
Zucchini
Cheese/Basil
Bell Peppers
Onions
Cheese/Basil
Zucchini
Onions
Bell Peppers
Cheese/Basil
Zucchini
5. Cover with plastic and find a plate that is just a little smaller than your springform and will sit down in it. Put some heavy weights on top, place it in a bowl or something to catch the liquid, and let it sit in your fridge, at least 3 hours and up to a day. We ate it cold, which was fine, but the recipe says to let it come to room temp first. Your call.
   

"Asian" Chicken Salad

There's this rumor going around that some people are actually reading this blog and actually noticing when I go, say, three weeks without posting anything. Admittedly, it's partly out of mere exhaustion, but partly because I have heretofore been 90% sure that my mother is the only one reading. I really do take pictures of almost everything I eat in anticipation of posting some day. What I have in optimistic creativity I lack in follow through.

So, let's try this again. Here is last night's dinner. Not life changing, but since this type of dish is popping up on chain-restaurant menus across the country (including a certain Jack-in-the-Box in a certain rural Texas town I recently visited), someone must be eating it. We have elsewhere discussed my preoccupation with salads, and as I love these flavors, I much prefer to toss them together myself. With the exception of snow peas (and the dressing), 100% of the components of this salad can be found at farmers markets right now. So buy there if you can. The "Asian" is in quotes because I'm pretty sure no one in Asia eats anything similar to this....

"Asian" Chicken Salad

serves 2; total time 20 minutes, less if you have precooked chicken

4-5 leaves napa cabbage

4-5 leaves romaine lettuce

1 small carrot, thinly sliced

4 radishes, halved and thinly sliced

1 inch thinly sliced cucumber

8-10 snow peas, julienned

2-3 scallions (green onions), chopped

2ish Tbsp chopped cilantro

2ish Tbsp chopped mint

small handful of peanuts, chopped

1 breast grilled chicken

for the dressing:

2 Tbsp rice wine vinegar

1 Tbsp soy sauce

1 good blop of honey from the honey bear

1 tsp fresh grated ginger (or sprinkle of dried will do)

1-2 Tbsp toasted sesame oil**

(optional, 1 Tbsp creamy peanut butter and a squirt of hot sauce or sprinkle of red pepper flakes, for some kick)

1. If your chicken breast is not already cooked (ala the Whole Foods prepared foods counter or rotisserie chicken aisle) grill it on your George Foreman, broil it in the oven, poach it in some water--whatever you like. Just get it cooked and slice it up.
2. Divide salad ingredients into two bowls: do this as you chop them to save time and space. Whisk dressing ingredients together vigorously and pour over salads. Top with chopped herbs and nuts.
3. Tada!

**Special note: sesame oil and toasted sesame oil are two very different things. Be sure you get toasted sesame oil for the best flavor.

Marinated Eggplant and Goat Cheese Toasts

Found some Asian eggplant at the farmer's market yesterday and remembered, somewhere deep in my mental files, a recipe from Gourmets-long-past that we had liked last summer. First, you disk up the long, thin specimens, broil them briefly, and marinate them for at least 30 minutes or up to a couple of days. Room temperature is their ideal state, so even if that room's temperature is in the 80s--as mine relentlessly is these days--at least you don't have to fire up the oven any longer than 10 minutes on this one.

I think it's designed as an appetizer, but add a thick piece of toast schmeared with goat cheese, and call it lunch (or dinner, like we did last night).

Marinated Eggplant and Goat Cheese Toasts

(serves 1-2; active time, about 15 minutes + 30 min marinating, but can be done well in advance)

1 lb. asian eggplants, sliced into thin rounds

olive oil

2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

2 Tbsp capers

1/4 cup chopped mint

bread

goat cheese

1. Place eggplant slices in a single layer on sheet pan and brush with olive oil (or spray with cooking spray), then sprinkle with salt. Broil 5 minutes, then flip, repeat, and broil 5 minutes more.
2. In a bowl, combine vinegar, 2 Tbsp olive oil, capers, and mint. Toss cooked eggplant in mixture and allow to marinate at least half an hour.
3. Spread cheese on your toast and use as a scoop or a plate.